If you’re not licensed to test, repair and replace backflow assemblies you should immediately sign up through your local certification agency.
If you’re already certified and have been testing assemblies, you’re aware of the “easy day” coming your way with a day full of tests. But do you take backflow as seriously as you should? I bet none of us really do, but we should.
Skipping steps
For the seasoned vets who test backflow assemblies all the time, you’re aware of the shortcuts to testing backflows. Once you get good at testing and understand what’s going on inside the device and your gauge, it’s easy to skip steps and get straight to the point — skipping the setup process and going straight to testing the checks. You might even skip testing the No. 2 shutoff valve. Another travesty is not even recording the actual model, serial and water meter numbers.
While you may get away with this, you should decide right now to do an about-face and start doing things the right way, and here’s why. First, you’re not taking yourself seriously as a professional. There is no difference between you and some poorly trained handyman. Second, most water authorities have changed how they look at backflows. Instead of sending you paperwork with what exact device needs to be tested, they are sending addresses only. This is weeding out much of the incorrect data that was turned in previously and red flagging you as a tester. They are also looking at it as “XYZ backflow is protecting which water meter specifically?” Instead of you being able to leave the meter number blank, they are sending you the meter numbers that serve an address. If you can’t find which one protects which meter you are in for a long day. Third, water authorities are subbing out the data collection processes to online data collection companies. This becomes a nightmare if you don’t have your numbers matching and in a row.
If you are one of the millions of backflow professionals who are sloppy with your data, it’s time to take it seriously. If the water authority has its wires crossed and incorrect device models, serials, locations, sizes, etc., it’s time to update the info to start processing things the right way.
Routine disassembly and part replacements on RPZs
Did you know that some states require a business to have RPZs disassembled, internally inspected and reassembled every five years through the state’s DEP compliance? It should come as no surprise to you then the benefits of completing this task regardless of your specific state’s rules. RPZs have more working parts than a basic low-hazard double check and therefore more risk associated with discharging and causing major property damage.
Smaller-sized RPZs can be difficult to disassemble, especially when the original installer has the assembly jammed in what they considered an “accessible” location. You should at least make sure that the discharge line is piped to a nearby drain. This will prevent property damage in the event of a full failure discharge or intermittent discharge.
Where you can make a big difference is on larger sized RPZs. RPZs 3 inches and larger have more of an opportunity to do preventive maintenance. Most large-diameter RPZs now have a water meter with an inlet strainer as part of the meter assembly. It is good practice to blow down and clean inlet strainers every year when you test the RPZ. It is also a great idea to replace the sensing line hose. These hoses get dirty throughout the year with debris from the water supply. When this line clogs over time, the device will discharge. This is especially concerning with large-diameter devices. Imagine a 12-inch RPZ fully discharging.
Device locations
Another overlooked part of the backflow world is assembly locations. The only way you can install an RPZ in a vault is if it has boresight to daylight. Boresight to daylight is often not possible due to the cold weather of the area; however in cold weather climates you may still find an RPZ in a vault. Don’t ignore it. Have them moved inside.
Another location issue is in mechanical rooms where an RPZ feeding a boiler or irrigation system may be way up in the ceiling. This is not considered accessible, and the device needs to be piped in at a much lower level. Most times an RPZ installed that high won’t even have an air gap/drain piped in and is also not properly supported.
You should also be on the lookout for RPZs installed vertically. Check the model number of the unit to verify whether that specific device can be installed vertically or not. Most commercially available RPZs are only available in the proper horizontal installation pattern. They do make vertical pattern RPZs. If you find a horizontal pattern RPZ in the vertical position it should either be re-piped in the horizontal position or replaced with a vertical pattern RPZ.
About the Author
Anthony Pacilla is a registered master plumber for McVehil Plumbing in Washington, Pennsylvania. He has over two decades of experience in the plumbing and HVAC trades and has a bachelor’s in business and economics from Thiel College.
